I removed the part and filed out some of the material where the sprocket meets the gear to make it sit flush. After installing everything later on I realized my printed part was not deep enough for the sprocket, which was making the sprocket push against the clutch washer, negating the clutch completely and making the chain move while idling. Since there was a bunch of material built up I thought that might be why the chain was turning while the motor was idling. Since there is friction between the clutch and the sprocket the foot has padding on it to prevent metal on metal contact. Once throttle is applied to the motor the clutch engages and the chain starts to turn. The clutch is designed to disengage the chain when the engine speed is slow so the saw can be handled easier. I noticed when I installed the new sprocket that the old one had significant amount of clutch foot material on the outside of it. Side by side the differences between the sprockets becomes more visible The sprocket and needle bearing were then installed. Once the cover was back on things were looking good! I tried to mimic the amount of friction the existing part had.Īn image of how the new part interacts with the oil pump gear. I did have to ream the inside out a little bit to get it to fit on the shaft. I ended up printing around 20 mm/s, 60% infill, 0.1mm layers, and 0.6mm sidewalls with a. Hot off the print bed! It took me 3 tries with different speeds to find an acceptable quality part. The sprocket that moves the chain is also used to power the oil pump gear, so if the pitch of the chain changes the positioning of the sprocket had to change as well. The difference from the old and new part was the pattern the clutch uses to drive the oil pump. After a few minutes of googling I came across this, a STL to 3D print a copy of the gear from the comfort of my own home! Since the gear doesn’t receive any real stress when the oil pump is operating correctly printing this piece out of ABS with 60% infill would be able to withstand the forces applied from the clutch. “There has to be a cheaper way for penny pinching Matt!” I thought to myself. I found a seller on eBay that manufactures their own replica part, for over $40 a piece. My local Stihl dealer told me the part wasn’t available for purchase. Mainly the oil pump gear that connects the clutch to oil pump, which I couldn’t find anywhere. Unfortunately since the saw hasn’t been produced since the 80’s some of the parts were hard to come by. I read that a 1/4″ pitch bar wouldn’t work well with a 3/8″ pitch chain even though they were both.
I would also need a new chain and bar to run the new setup. Looking online I found a few forums talking about upgrading the 015L from the harder to find 1/4″ chain to the more common 3/8″ pitch chain.įirst I would need a new sprocket and needle bearing to match.
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The service manual said to adjust the idle throttle if this was happening, but even when the motor was about to die it was idling so slow the chain was still turning.īeing quite the novice at sharpening chainsaws I decided to get a new chain instead. I also noticed that the chain would rotate around the bar even when the motor was idling. After examining the chain I came to conclusion that the chain was as dull as a butter knife. Immediately after starting I realized the tree was starting to smoke and I wasn’t making much progress through the branches. After cleaning everything out and a installing a new set of gaskets I got it started and went to town on a dead tree in my backyard. I disassembled and took apart the carburetor where years of neglect and ethanol fuel had taken its toll. I received a non-working Stihl 015L Chainsaw the other day to repair. Temporary cross shaft to hold spool Printing a new mask with 0.6mm layers, much faster! The print bed can hold up to 6 masks at a time if everything is laid out perfectly I also replaced the old frankensteined SeeMeCnc carriage rollers with linear slides from ebay. I upgraded to the e3d volcano hotend for faster printing. The new dimensions were slightly large to get more of the print surface inside the triangle for better print accuracy. I got the aluminum corner pieces from RobotDigg. While I was replacing the controller and cleaning up the burnt table I replaced all of the old 2525 aluminum extrusion with new 2020 from Misumi. I upgraded to a more modern solution, the SKR 1.4 Turbo controlled via Octoprint running on a Raspberry Pi 4. I never had very good luck with this board, nothing can be fixed easily on it when steppers break etc.
I was printing masks for my local hospital when suddenly my smoothieware board bit the dust! Don’t leave your printer unsupervised!
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